A global platform Fashion for Good has announced the launch of Project DW(O)R-X, a collaborative initiative designed to benchmark PFAS alternative durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) chemistries. The project aims to generate reliable, comparable data that can support informed sourcing decisions and the assessment of emerging chemistries.
The initiative brings together leading brands adidas and C&A, manufacturing partners Shahi Exports, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials and Wujiang Fuhua Fabric Co., alongside technology providers Archroma, Daikin Chemicals Europe, Dow, Dryfiber, Jintex, Lamoral Coatings, Pulcra Chemicals, Rudolf and vandeyk.tech. Performance testing will be conducted by SGS.
Industry seeks alternatives to PFAS-based finishes
Historically, durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) finishes have been used to help materials stay dry, clean and durable over time. Some formulations have contained per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), a group of chemicals characterised by their high persistence.
As a result, PFAS can remain in the environment for extended periods, bioaccumulate in humans and ecosystems, and have been associated with adverse health effects when exposure exceeds established thresholds.
Despite growing momentum towards PFAS alternatives, several challenges remain. Many currently available alternatives do not match the oil repellency and long-term durability of PFAS-based finishes. In addition, there is no unified approach to performance assessment, and existing testing protocols do not always reflect real-world use, making comparisons between solutions difficult.
According to Fashion for Good, current benchmarks also no longer reflect the capabilities of today’s PFAS alternative solutions. Updated benchmarks are needed to identify leading solutions and understand performance gaps, helping to inform research, development and scale-up efforts.
Nine solutions to be assessed across three key dimensions
To address these challenges, Project DW(O)R-X will benchmark nine PFAS alternative solutions, ranging from early-stage innovations to established chemistries, across three dimensions: performance, environmental impact and cost.
Project partners have developed a performance framework intended to better reflect real-world use. The framework incorporates multi-condition testing and custom stains relevant to sportswear and outerwear, including soil, sunscreen and sweat.
The project will test a performance framework built on a combination of standardised methods. Fashion for Good said the resulting insights could help establish a common industry reference point, enabling brands and mills to support internal decision-making while allowing chemical companies to substantiate performance claims.
Fashion for Good: Phasing out PFAS is not the only challenge
Fashion for Good Managing Director Katrin Ley said the industry’s challenge is not only to phase out PFAS, but also to ensure that replacement solutions do not create new environmental or health concerns that are not yet fully understood.
Ley said Project DW(O)R-X is intended to provide brands and mills with data covering real-world performance testing, impact assessment and cost considerations, helping to support informed decision-making and progress towards safer chemistry at scale.
C&A highlights for coordinated action across the value chain
Commenting on the initiative, C&A said: “Phasing out PFAS across the sector requires coordinated action across the value chain.”
The company said it has not allowed the intentional use of PFAS in its products for many years, but noted that a responsible transition depends on shared changes in manufacturing practices and the availability of accessible and reliable alternatives at scale.
According to C&A, Project DW(O)R-X provides a benchmarking framework that evaluates alternatives across performance, environmental impact and cost, while contributing to a shared knowledge base intended to support progress towards safer chemistry without compromising product quality and durability.